We have modified our laser cutter so that it can take Gcode. You can use any Gcode interpreter that you would like, however we have decided to focus on using Laserweb. We currently have a Youtube video to help get people started with laser web.
You can buy acrylic of all types and have it delivered from this company: http://www.hazaiya.co.jp/
Specialty materials such as marble, pearl and glitter acrylic: http://www.amy.hi-ho.ne.jp/m-ono/
We might also be able to get scrap acryl for free from Happy Printers in Harajuku. http://happyprinters.jp
One hack we desperately need to do is to either remove the original bed, or move the bed height knob to somewhere else. It effectively cuts off 4CM of cutting space on the bed. Also, the screw in the knob must be a factory hack, as it is OBVIOUSLY the wrong screw. With the honeycomb in, you cant even turn the knob a full turn! WTF?!
So, short term hack: Fix the botch screw job Long term hack: MOVE the knob physically, or rip the bed out entirely.
Started documenting and reverse engineering the current board. Datasheet can be found here: http://www.3wcad.com/ Our board is the one at the very top (6C6879-LASER-M2) and datasheet is here: http://www.3wcad.com/download/M2%E4%B8%BB%E6%9D%BF%E7%A1%AC%E4%BB%B6%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8C.rar (In Chinese)
Things done: Although pinouts for most connectors are there at page 2, pinout for the flat ribbon cable is nowhere to be found. It basically combines X stepper and XY limit switch headers into one. 5V pin was tricky as it has a diode in between the 5V rail and the pin. Found the pinout and documented it. Now trying to find the cable type (Probably an FFC cable with 12 pins and 1.5 mm pitch, cable marking “awm 80c 60v 20624 vw-1”, only 9 pins are used).
Here are the connector pinouts:
Pin 1 is the leftmost pin.
Pin 1 is the rightmost pin.
Pin 1 is the rightmost pin.
Pin 1 is the top pin.
Pin 1 is the leftmost pin.